25_Critter Eviction

Consider adding one or more of these to your attic/crawl space.  

We've had decades of success with them.  It emits an ultrasonic sound that makes it unpleasant for any critters/birds to want to stay in your home, but you'll never hear it in the house. (It makes a slight click so you can tell it's working). Plugs into a standard outlet.  Set it and forget it.  

Easier to dissuade pests then to evict them.  Avoid the danger of chewed wire - the expense of removal and repair. 

______________________________________________________________

Bird-X TX-PRO Transonic Pro Electronic Pest Repeller

Price: $25.49

In stock. Processing takes an additional 2 to 3 days for orders from this seller. Ships from and sold by PCSOUTDOORS.

35 new from $25.49  http://www.amazon.com/Bird-X-TX-PRO-Transonic-Electronic-Repeller/dp/tags-on-product/B000FG8B50

At the time of posting, Home Depot carries this product for just under $40.  

Lowe's carries something comparable for around $25.

24_FileMaker Pro samples

Developers often show people invoicing systems and grids of data.  

While that might be very interesting to other code junkies, it can put the rest of 

the world to sleep.  I can do that too, but I hope this presentation makes 

important issues clear and doesn't cause eyelids to droop.

For example, if you are familiar with Craigslist...

If you are familiar with a recipe file...

Recipe on the left, ingredients on the right, generate a grocery list below.

These examples may seem simplistic, but the concepts that run them are 

the same as larger more complex systems.  They contain related tables, 

filtered portals, calculations and scripts, custom reporting, and 

interaction with real-time web data.  All functions inherent in every 

contract manager, invoicing system, or inventory control program 

that you can dream up.

FileMaker Pro is at home on the Mac, PC, iPhone, iPad and the web. 

23_ Referrals

FileMaker Pro client:

Remote FileMaker Pro client in Mexico:

Quicken client:


Erika Kidd and I have worked together for probably 2 years.  She has trained me on how to use Quicken for all my financial activity.  I have many accounts, as well as credit cards and investments we have incorporated into the program.  It helps when it is tax time, and let's me know where my money is going.

I was uncomfortable, at first, sharing my financial information with Erika.  I found her through Craig's List, and did not know her.  I have been a victim of fraud in the past, and the idea of theft or anything in this realm worried me.  The more I got to know Erika, the more I trusted her.  Now, she just comes in and balances my checkbook, inputs my checks, catagorizes everything, including my credit cards.  Erika is a Christian and very trustworthy.  I also trust my dog to her.  My husband and I travel a great deal, and Erika will pet sit my dog.  One other thing, she makes a great "handyman."  My honey-do list is finished more by her than my husband!

I have referred Erika to quite a few people.  She has had access to my best friend's financial information, as well. 

Karen Curry - Milton, GA

22_ Insulating Ideas for little cash

ONE:

If you have attic stairs, you might consider building one of these five sided boxes to keep heat from escaping into your attic this winter.  Just some rigid insulation and duct tape will do the trick <$20. 

 Measure the dimensions of your stairs from the attic side when closed.  Cut the insulation with a utility knife and tape the pieces together.  It only needs to rest above the stair opening.  Light enough to slide out of the way as you enter the attic and to replace as you exit.

If you have a whole house attic fan this works as well.  Remember to remove it before you turn the fan on again in the spring.  It really does make a difference in the hallway where my thermostat is located.

TWO: 

If you don't already have a ridge vent, consider adding it.  Hot air flows in through the soffit, along the underside of the roof and out the top without the need of powered fans (which need maintenance and electricity). The materials needed for the average home are less than $100 (less than a fan and available at the large home improvement centers). A carpenter could install it in half a day.  Most attics do not have enough ventilation - there are many sites on the web to help calculate how much your house needs.  

21_ Dog Fun

Fun at our place usually starts with a good brushin'!

Some enjoy this more than others.  Maybe a bath.

  

Then we can play!

 Explore.

Dinner - party of five.

And a nap or a sunbath.

Then some MORE play.

  And some more ball games.

 Running with the pack

Everyone sleeps well at night:-)

20_Cabinet Door Refinishing

Four simple steps

Tools needed: 

• TSP/cleaner, sandpaper 
• shellac or oil base primer, paint brush 
• paint base color (in this case cream) and 
• accent color (chocolate brown) 
• toothbrush and sealer.

Your provide time (work + drying) and effort.


Painting affords you the option of replacing your pulls and/or hinges.
Measure the distance between the holes of the pull.
Either purchase new pulls with the same distance or
fill one or both holes with a sandable putty to disguise their location.
For example, in this way you can go from a 3" pull along the side to a 6"pull
across the top of the door, if you wish.

 Remove hardware, clean with TSP, sand smooth and 

scuff surfaces to allow for best primer adhesion.

Spray with fine coat of quality primer, and allow to dry.

Paint with good quality paint in your choice of color.

Once dry, sand off paint and primer to reveal the wood

in areas where you would expect to see wear and tear 

(edges, near the handle and so on).

 Use a toothbrush to get some of the thinned accent paint into 

the recesses to highlight the detail of the woodwork.  

Drag a thumb across the bristles to splatter a bit of color.  

Dry wipe some across the surface and edges
until the desired look in achieved.  

Let this dry thoroughly before sealing with a clear shellac.

Replace the pulls and hinges to reinstall.

If you create your own kitchen vision, 

your pride in your own accomplishment will be added to the pleasure of its use.

19_FileMaker Web Viewer Virtual Tour

FileMaker Pro allows you to get real-time information from the web associated with your data, without having to open a browser.  View maps to the address of your contacts, track package deliveries for your customers, display research data, track stock performance and store the results in a user friendly way that allows you to access and use the results in seconds.

Double click on the image to get a closer look.

Virtual tour of a FileMaker Pro database solution created in version 11 utilizing the Web Viewer in a semi-automated data scraping tool (Craigslist is only an example) by Erika Kidd, Klozpin FileMaker Development.


Want to know more?  Watch this short video: http://www.filemaker.com/eight_five/learning/pop_movie.html?src=T01_v1.mov

18_Residential Kitchen Redesign

The Kitchen

Before - from the Carport Door

After

Before - from the bedroom hallway

 After

Planned the new design and coordinated the talent to complete it in this 1960's brick ranch.  Removed the wall between two rooms, feathered into the existing hardwood floors, widened the door to the dining room, added skylights, a dozen recessed can lights + 3 pendants (not yet up in this photo).  Replaced all cabinetry with new IKEA products and appliances.  Added the island with bar, granite counters and glass tile backsplash. Ran crown moulding, chose colors and painted.

Estimated equity increase - double the renovation costs for labor and materials.

17_Water Pressure Reducing Valves

Water Pressure Reducing Valves

Ensuring Practical, Safe Working Water Pressures Municipal and private water supply companies use pumps and pumping stations to boost water supply pressures in supply mains to be able to supply water for fire fighting, high rise buildings to overcome loss of pressure as the elevation increases, and to maintain water supply in water towers and supply tanks. Pressure in water supply mains can exceed 200psi. Most plumbing codes require water pressure reducing valves on domestic systems where the municipal water main's pressure exceeds 80psi. Higher pressures could rupture pipes, damage fixtures,and injure the people using them.

How Does a Pressure Reducing Valve Work?

Installed directly after the water meter in homes, commercial buildings, and manufacturing plants, a water pressure reducing valve automatically reduces the pressure from the water supply main to a lower, more sensible pressure.

Water entering the valve from municipal mains is constricted within the valve body and directed through the inner chamber controlled by an adjustable spring loaded diaphragm and disc. Even if the supply water pressure fluctuates, the pressure reducing valve ensures a constant flow of water at a functional pressure, as long as the supply pressure does not drop below the valve's pre-set pressure.

Sizing a Water Pressure Reducing Valve for Your Application

A properly sized valve prevents noisy operation ("water hammer" banging or whining pipes) or premature valve failure. 

Choosing the Correct Installation Configuration

Water pressure reducing valves can increase your water system's performance, reduce operating costs, and ensure a longer life for other plumbing fixtures. Most simple pressure reducing applications require the installation of a single regulator. 

Source: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/reducingValves.asp?catId=64#whatiswprv

Testing Water Pressure

Gauges like this one are available from your favorite home improvement center for less than $10 (0-120psi).  Be sure no water is being used in the house while you are testing - to get an accurate STATIC pressure reading. Attach the gauge, turn on the faucet, take the reading, turn off the faucet and disconnect the gauge.  You can also call your water supplier and ask them what it should be in your area.  The ideal pressure for inside fixtures is around 50 psi.  The PRV can be adjusted with the bolt to output different amounts of pressure.  Reduce the pressure to save water and extend the useful life of fixtures.

How much does a typical family of four use?

A typical family of four uses an average of 255 gallons of water each day for interior plumbing. This is broken down by:

• dishwashing -        15 gallons;
• cooking/drinking -  12 gallons;
• utility sink -             5 gallons;
• laundry -               35 gallons;
• bathing -               80 gallons;
• bathroom sink -       8 gallons;
• toilet -                 100 gallons.

When you multiply this by a year, typical family usage totals 93,000 gallons of water. Your family particularly if it includes teenagers, would undoubtedly use more than the above averages.

How long will a Regulator last?

Regulators have been described as "life-of-mortgage" products, because historically a malfunctioning pressure regulator is not replaced but simply cleaned or repaired via an inexpensive service kit. Design wise, it is similar to the kitchen faucet in that dirt or foreign matter on the seating area can cause problems and actually it is no more difficult to repair a regulator than it is to fix the kitchen faucet.

Over time, some valves can wear out and if replacement is required expect approximately $50 + labor.  I suggest buying from a plumbing supply specialty store, as there are many models available.  

Want to read more: http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/sprinkler03.htm
___________________


Clarifying Note: Pressure Relief Valves (PRV) also exist as a safety feature for hot water tanks, and are NOT what is being discussed in this article.

___________________

Addition: 

Fluidmaster S2DBL Dual FlushToilet Conversion Kit

Between $30-40

"FLUIDMASTER" COMPLETE WATER SAVING DUAL FLUSH CONVERSION KIT 
*Converts your existing toilet to dual flush.
* Uses up to 45% less water.
* Fully adjustable for a wide range of applications.
* Adjustable Dual Float System delivers precise and powerful flushing action.
* Complete system includes: flush and fill valves and all installation accessories.
* Water Level Adjusting screw for best flush
* Durable Silicon seal for year of dependable flushes
* Has a Full and Half  flush for water savings you can see.

Turn the average 100 gallons per day of water usage at the toilet (for a family of four) into 50!
Available at: Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace Hardware and online.

16_Business Card Case

15_FREE and Functional Computer Services

Who can't use 2GB of FREE storage space?
 -I use it to transfer large database files 
and offsite backup.
www.dropbox.com



Remote desktop support
and file transfer 
www.TeamViewer.com

Secure Payments 

www.PayPal.com

14_Affordable Door Transformations

Consider this example:

6' wide x 8' high

Total cost $3,000

Materials cost: New vinyl door from Home Depot $1,000

Door installation and lockset.  Glass panel inserts $500 each.

____________________________________________________

For Comparison, these doors cost: $4,500

13_Replace Window Sash and Save

How to Install Replacement Windows

Two easy ways to pull out old windows and put in new wood or vinyl replacement inserts or double-hung sash replacement kits.

Ready to replace your drafty old windows with new energy-efficient units? We'll show you the two easiest ways to pull out old windows and put new ones in — and you don't have to tear off the interior moldings or disturb exterior trim and siding to do it.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine:March 2003

• Double-hung replacement windows
• Measure carefully
• Replacement inserts or sash replacement kits?
• Installing wood or vinyl replacement inserts
• Installing double-hung sash kits

Double-hung replacement windows

In this article, we'll show you step by step how to remove the old sash from double-hung windows and mount either a new sash kit or a wood or vinyl replacement insert inside your existing window jamb. Even a beginner can do it.

Both the sash replacement kit and the wood or vinyl replacement insert mount inside your existing window jamb, in the place that was occupied by the old sash. They both fit in the space between the outside stop, called the blind stop, and the removable interior stop (see Fig. A). The sash replacement kit is designed to replace the sash in double-hung windows only. Wood or vinyl replacement inserts, on the other hand, are self-contained units with their own jamb and sash, and can therefore be slid into almost any type of window jamb. They are available as double-hung, sliding or casement-style windows.

Either type of replacement window must be installed in a solid, rot-free jamb. Inspect your old window frame carefully for signs of water damage. Pay particular attention to the sill. Probe with a screwdriver to uncover hidden soft spots. Normal exposure to rain and snow often causes the exposed parts of poorly maintained windowsills or the lower sections of the exterior trim to rot. An experienced carpenter can usually repair these areas with sections of new wood or you can use an epoxy repair system. Rot along the top or interior parts of windows, including the window jamb, is more difficult to repair and often signals a bigger problem. Don't mess with repairs. Plan on tearing out the entire window and installing a new one.

Measure carefully

Measure very carefully before you place an order, no matter what type you install. There's nothing worse than discovering that your nonreturnable, custom-sized window doesn't fit. Measure the width between the side jambs at the top, middle and bottom and record the smallest measurement. Measure all the way to the jamb, not the blind stop or parting stop (see Fig. A). Now measure the height from the top jamb to the sill (see Fig. A). Measure both sides and the middle and record the smallest measurement. Finally, determine the sill angle (Photo 1) and specify this when you order a sash replacement kit to make sure the jamb liners fit tight to the sill. This step isn't necessary for ordering wood or vinyl replacement inserts. Keep a record of all correspondence with your window supplier and ask for a written confirmation before the windows are ordered so you can double-check the sizes.

If your house was built before about 1940, you'll likely have double-hung windows with sash weights and cords like the ones shown in this article. Newer double-hungs may have springs or jamb liners instead, but once these are removed, the installation process is the same.

Parts of a double-hung window

Figure A: Window parts

It helps to understand the part of the window.

Replacement inserts or sash replacement kits?

1 of 4

Replacement window insert

Replacement window inserts tilt into the existing frame.

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Option 1: Wood or vinyl replacement inserts
For a maintenance-free window that doesn't require any painting or staining, consider vinyl replacement windows. Some companies even make a simulated wood grain interior. Since wood or vinyl replacement inserts have their own jamb, they can be installed in window jambs that are slightly out of square. Ask your window dealer for help measuring, though, since you'll have to downsize the window slightly to fit.

Shopping for replacement windows is a little trickier than buying sash kits because the quality of the windows varies dramatically and many are available only to contractors. Make sure to inspect and operate an actual working model of the window before you order. Look closely at details like the locking system, weatherstripping, and sash and frame joints. Then consider the overall appearance. Some windows, like ours, have narrow vinyl sash parts that allow more light and a better view than windows with wide sash frames.

Option 2: Double-hung sash replacement kits
If you want to retain the authentic wood look of your old double-hung windows, sash replacement kits are the best option. You can order the sashes with grilles to match the rest of the windows in your house and paint or stain the wood. (You can choose grilles that either snap in or are glued to the glass.) But your old window jamb must be square and rot-free. Measure diagonally. If the diagonal measurements differ by more than 1/2 in., the new sash won't seal properly and you should replace the window or use a vinyl replacement window instead.

Double-hung sash replacement kits consist of two new wood window sashes, two vinyl jamb liners and installation hardware. Features like energy-efficient low-E glass, simulated divided lites and maintenance-free exterior cladding are available for an extra cost. Contact the manufacturer for more information about options and to find out where to order windows in your area.

Installing wood or vinyl replacement inserts

1 of 9

Photo 1: Gently pry off the interior stops

Pry against a stiff putty knife to protect the wood. To minimize paint chipping on painted windows, score the joint between the window frame and stop with a utility knife before prying off the stop. Pull the nails through the backside of the stop with a nail nipper or pliers. Complete the window prep by following Photos 2 and 3.

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Start your replacement insert installation by removing the interior stop, sash and parting stop. The parting stop is usually caked with paint and difficult to remove. Use a pliers (Photo 3) to break out the lower section. If the upper sash is stuck, pry or break out the upper section of parting stop with a chisel. If your windows have spring balances or metal jamb liners rather than sash weights like ours, start by removing the interior stops (Photo 1). Then look for the screws or nails that secure the sash hardware and remove them. The goal is to remove all hardware back to the blind stops (Photo 2). You don't have to worry about dinging up the jamb and sill because they’ll be covered. If your window has a sash weight cavity, stuff it with insulation.

Make sure your window insert is square
Your wood or vinyl replacement insert will be slightly smaller than the window jamb opening to allow for shimming. The key to a window that operates smoothly and seals properly is getting the frame perfectly square and the sides straight. Photos 4 — 6 show how. Don't be afraid to remove the screws and readjust the window in the opening if necessary. In addition to checking the window by measuring the diagonals (Photo 5), open and close the sashes to make sure the tops and bottoms are parallel with the sill and top jamb and that the top and bottom sashes are parallel to each other where they meet in the middle. Keep tweaking the shims until everything is square and lined up. Then snug but don't overtighten the screws. Complete the installation by reinstalling the interior stops (Photo 7) and sealing up the exterior (Photos 8 and 9). You can also install wood or vinyl replacement inserts in casement and sliding window jambs. We won't talk about them in detail here. Be sure to read the installation instructions that come with each window.

CAUTION!

Houses built before 1978 may contain lead paint. Before disturbing any surface, get a lab analysis of paint chips from it. Contact your public health department for information on how to collect samples and where to send them. Do-it-yourself lead testing kits are also available at home centers and hardware stores.

Installing double-hung sash kits

1 of 9

Photo 1: Determine the bottom angle of the sash

Align the edge of a heavy piece of paper with the window stop and fold the bottom to match the angle of the sill. Lay a protractor (Fig. B) on the folded paper to determine the angle. Then measure the interior height and width of the window frame. Use these measurements to order your sash replacement kit.

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The toughest part of sash replacement is tearing out the old window. You have to pry off the stop (carefully for reuse) and the parting stop (which you can discard; see Photo 3). You can either nail or screw the new liner clips in place (Photo 4). We chose screws because driving nails can be difficult in old window jambs. Be sure to leave a 1/16-in. space between the clip and the blind stop or the jamb liner won't snap in (Photo 5). Then replace the interior stops and top parting stop (Photo 6). Read the instructions included with your window for the exact procedure to use for lowering the sash lifts (Photo 7) and tilting the sash into place. If you have trouble pushing in the sash after you tilt it up, try working with one side at a time.

Compress the jamb liner with one hand while you ease one top corner of the sash in with the other. Then repeat the process on the other side. Also position the top of the sash toward the center of the opening.


Cost $100-$500 per window depending on the features you select.

Source:

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Doors---Windows/Window-Replacement/how-to-install-replacement-windows/Step-By-Step


Local Atlanta supplier:
http://www.stockbuildingsupply.com/doorswindowsstairs